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June 2006 Newsletter    

General Knowledge: Who invented the flush toilet?
(Answer at the end of the newsletter)

I arrived in Delhi and was welcomed by sweltering heat of 45ºC. The next morning I went to The Imperial Hotel to meet up with Robert. The Imperial
was the first hotel to be built in New Delhi when the British decided to move the capital from Old Delhi in 1920. It is a very Impressive hotel; you can sense the remnants of the British Raj. I noticed as I entered the gates of the hotel, a big Mercedes and a Bentley with Diplomatic number plates and a huge fleet of rented Mercedes. I found out through Robert that the President of Gabon was in town - the cars with the blue plates belonged to their embassy and the huge fleet of rented limousines was for his entourage.

I had a meeting with my Indian operator who took me around to see a few five star hotels for future bookings. I was astonished to find out that due to the economic boom in India the hotels are charging full rack rates, causing local Tour operators immense problems as they would have sent out special rates months ahead to their foreign agents. I was told that some hotels even trick the travel companies here by saying the standard rooms are fully booked and only the deluxe ones are available; the desperate tour operators have to take that despite the higher price, fearing even that might be taken up by someone else - how are they to know that the hotel puts the clients in their standard rooms which they sold for premium rates! INCREDIBLE INDYEAH!


Robert and I met up in the lobby of the Imperial for pre-dinner drinks. Wesipped on Indian wine called Sula, which is as good as any vintage French Sauvignon Blanc, according to Robert. After a couple of glasses we headed towards South Delhi to an Anglo Indian restaurant which couldn’t have a more befitting name: ‘Days of the Raj’. The cuisine was fabulous and it was washed down with more red Sula wine. After dinner we headed back to The Imperial as we had a long 280km drive ahead to Musoorie in the newly formed state of Uttranchal.Uttranchal was part of Uttar Pradesh, the most populous state of India until 2002. Uttranchal is one the holiest places for Hindus. Both the Gangga (Ganges) and Jamuna (Yamuna) rivers have their sources in this state. We drove through the State and district Capital, Dehradun. As soon as we hit the winding road towards Musoorie we could feel the huge change in temperature. For this summer I intend to include a mini series called the legends of Mussoorie. These are people who made tremendous feats.

Legends of Mussoorie


Captain Frederick Young founded Mussoorie (2005m). He is a historic figure. The Gurkhas during the Anglo Gurkha war in the Doons took him as a prisoner of war for 18 months. During this period Young and the Gurkhas gained mutual respect. It is said that when Young was asked by the Gurkhas, “Why didn’t you run?” Young is believed to have answered, “I didn’t come here to run!”
While based in Dehradun, Young used to go hunting up in the Mussoorie hills. In 1825 Young built the first ever permanent building in Mussoorie, which he lovingly called Mullinger, after the place where he grew up in Ireland. He introduced the potato to Mussoorie. Young was the commanding officer of the first Gurkha Battalion and went on to become a Brigadier before retiring.
More on the Gurkhas …..

The main intention of our visit to Uttranchal was to find out as much as we could about the life of Frederick Wilson who was one of the most successful merchants of his time. We spent some time looking for his grave at the Camel Back road cemetery. After nearly two hours of walking around the cemetery I found the grave which, according to Robert, had deteriorated in just six months and had been vandalised. We spent time with local ‘celebrity’ writers Ruskin Bond and Ganesh Saili who are the last of the ‘Wilson’ fans. We left for the district of Uttarkashi to gather more information onthe life of Wilson and his family. We got to Gangotri (near the source of the Ganges) at a very auspicious time. We were in one the holiest Hindu pilgrim sites, it was a full moon and it happened to be Vesak day (the day the Buddha was born enlightened and later reached Nirvana).
With the nerve-racking driving and roads in India, a light relief are the road signs. On the way to the holiest Hindu site we saw this road sign.

Apparently there used to be a sign a few kilometres ahead that said ‘Abode of Gods”. We trekked towards Gaumukh (cow’s mouth) where the source of the Ganges is. Our intention was to walk as far as we could go and return at 11am as we had been given more information and we planned to go back to the village to do more research. It was a beautiful walk with mountains on both sides of the valley; Sudarshan, Bhagirathi and Mehru to name a few peaks. On the trek we came upon a big group of soldiers from the Maratha regiment on their way to climb Bhagirathi II (6500m). By the time we got back we had walked 25 km that day. We had a couple of days to probe around before going for a 5-day trek, which we had booked with a local trekking company.


We did the Dodital trek. We started from Sangam Chatti. It was a steady climb through beautiful forest towards Bhewra, our stop for the first night. There was a big group of public school girls from Dehradun on the same trek as us. We thought it was great for school children to be given such opportunities to appreciate nature. I had a very interesting talk with our guide, Govind. When asked what sort of wildlife could be found in the forests we were going to be trekking through, he answered, “Tigers bears, leopards, lions and cheetahs”. I got a very clear picture of what we were dealing with! The next day we walked to Dodital, it was the toughest day of the trek; 14km and an altitude gain of 1000m. It was another beautiful day of walking in the forest very early in the morning. I could hear barking dear in the distance, I saw a Kalij pheasant, some Blue sheep and some pika (a tail-less rodent). Along the way we passed a settlement of Gujjars. They are believed to have originated in Afghanistan. They are nomadic tribesmen who keep cows and buffaloes. They are vegetarian Muslims who exist mostly on dairy products. The Indian government tried giving them incentives to settle down and send their children to school, which they refused outright to do, and they live on with the same lifestyle as their forefathers.

Dodital is a beautiful lake surrounded by forest at an altitude of 3307 metres. There is also a shrine dedicated to the Hindu gods Shiva and Ganesh. The priest at the temple told us an interesting story. Dodital was where Parvati (Shiva’s wife) gave birth to Ganesh while Shiva was away. The lake is where Parvati did her meditation but there were many menacing entities that tried to disturb her. When Ganesh grew to a teenager he was asked to stand guard at the entrance of the Lake. One day when Shiva arrived to see his wife, Ganesh stopped him despite several requests. When he wasn’t allowed to see his wife Shiva chopped off Ganesh’s head in a rage.

Parvati was both enraged and saddened to find out what had happened to her son. She demanded Shiva to put Ganesh right again. Shiva ordered his lieutenants to go and get him the head of any living being they came across first thing before sunrise. The lieutenants saw an elephant and brought it’s head to Shiva, who revived Ganesh with the head of the elephant; hence the elephant headed god that we now recognise as Ganesh.

The next morning we headed towards the highest point of the trek, a small pass at 4000m called ‘Dharwa Top’. An hour after we set off the weather took a turn for the worse. We fixed our tents against a rock face with plans to spend the night there as the worst case scenario. We were told that at this time of year hail stones the size of tennis balls have rained near the top of the pass. We gathered huge logs and started a fire to keep us warm. We had collected enough logs to keep us going throughout the night.

We decided 90 minutes later that the weather was steady enough to keep going so broke up camp and proceeded steeply towards the pass. We walked down to a summer hut of the Gujjars to camp at 3650m. The view of the Bunderpunch range and the valleys below was terrific. The next morning we climbed back to a ridge to proceed towards Same, our next stop. There was still quite a bit of snow on the hills and at some of the places slipping could have been a painful experience.

We woke to another glorious morning. We trekked via a government tented
camp down towards our journey’s end. We came back to Mussoorie and did more research, looking for baptism, marriage and burial records of the Wilsons. We again stumbled into the 160th Anniversary of the foundation stone of the Christ Church being laid. It is the oldest Church in the Hill Stations of India. We enjoyed the special presence of a string quartet from Woodstock School. I even participated in some of the Hymns, which I had never heard before.

We returned to Delhi and parted ways a few days later. My journey to Leh, Ladakh next month.
There are photos of the visit to Uttranchal at this link http://notjusttreks.com/gallery/india-north.htm

The climbing season came to an end a few weeks ago.
Frankie, perhaps you will be lucky on the 3rd time around.
Blair congratulations on your success on Everest, the 3rd attempt on a 8000er

For details go on this link http://notjusttreks.com/links/links.html

General Knowledge Question: Who invented the first flush toilet?
answer : John Crapper

Raj Tamang,
Founder, Responsible Adventures
www.notjusttreks.com


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